I left my ersatz home, where my mother is buried, in 1990. Positano is without a doubt the most beautiful place on earth. I knew everyone there and unfortunately everyone used to know me. Things have changed as I found out this year.
Even though Positano hasn't the gastronomic prowess of Tuscany - far from it, there are some restaurants worth visiting.
The most elegant, stylish and centrally located hotel is the 4 star Poseidon Hotel. The owner, Marco Aonzo, and I had dinner together by the pool on the terrace. Marco said he tries to avoid Americans, but made an exception in my case. He owes me because back in the 70's his vicious Dalmatian, Luca, used to routinely try to nip at my heels as I strolled past the hotel. Marco is still as staid as ever, but a nice guy.
La Tagliata in Montepertuso, which is just up the mountain above Positano, is a rustic place with a great view. Montepertuso water is reputed to lower blood pressure (just the opposite from Fiuggi water) and the source used to be freely available off the road just before entering the village.
I took the boat with the familiar red fish on the mast to Da Adolfo on the Spiaggia di Laurito. Immediately Adolfo's son, Sergio, appeared to help passengers off the beautiful wood craft. Sergio told me his dad died about 4 years ago and that his Aussie gal, Amanda, had split with him after a son and several years together. He said he was very disappointed the direction Positano was headed and I replied that was why I left 20 years ago. When we said "good bye", Sergio mumbled we will see each other perhaps in another 30 years or so - how depressing being 90 years old and no longer able to get on and off that boat in choppy water.
The restaurant, Da Vincenzo, half way up from the beach on Via Pasitea, is now run by Giosue and his wife Marcella. I remember their wedding back in the late 60's. Marcella is the daughter of one of the best cooks in Positano, Celeste, who runs her own B and B in Fornillo with the help of her son, Guido. Guido also runs the bungalow on Fornillo beach, Da Ferdinando. Ferdinando is still around in his huge straw hat but is retired. God he had the best home made wine. Long ago we would wait till the tourists returned to their hotels late in the afternoon and gather up friends on the beach at a large makeshift table and have a feast. Those days are gone.
The Bar de Martino near Da Vincenzo is no longer considered "simpatico" as Ciro de Martino has retired. He and his wife, Edna, joined me for dinner at the Trattoria San Gennaro in Praiano where they now live. Ciro seemed a bit palsied but he had the same glint in his eyes. His wife dotes on him.
Da Pupetto is really the only restaurant worth eating at on Fornillo beach. Ciro's friendly daughter, Valeria, works there.
When it was time to leave I schlepped up to Chiesa Nuova where I found a wonderful old friend, Mimi, at the Bar Internazionale - Mimi is the owner. He offered me a drink, but the Sita bus was rounding the bend and I had to decline his typically kind offer. Mimi is one of the best of Positano which is why all the locals hang out at his bar - no bloody tourists either!
Like a beautiful yet intellectually challenged person, looks are not enough to nourish and fulfil which is exactly why Positano will never be a place I shall call home again - this may very well be my last visit.
Resquiescat in pace Mama.